North Island

I woke up at a decent time, packed up and headed into Port Hardy for breakfast. I found a great cafe with shopping in the basement and the upstairs. I wandered with my fm offer after eating, then set out for Cape Scott! (my head says that in a Great Scott! Voice every time)

I didn't make it all the way to the Cape, it's a bout a 21 km hike one way. But I rode the 63 km dirt road to the trail head. The first 20km was the worst, the second not memorable, and the last beautiful though the trees on dirt I dint feel was trying to kill me. (naturally the trip back couldn't end soon enough. All I wanted was pavement! Sweet sweet pavement) The effort was well worth it though: San Josef Bay, about a 3 km hike from the parking lot was magnificent! The tide was on its way in, so I couldn't get to second beach (or slget trapped on second beach) but I found a nearly private Cove to swim and nap in.

Back on the main road I headed south to Port McNeil. The fog set in. Both in my mood and the sky - I traveled a ways up a dirt track to try to find a free place to camp, it was muddy and I nearly dumped the bike twice, its super hard to control through slick muddy spots, you kinda just have to keep it moving.

I got into port McNeil and tried to make it to a campsite based on some signage I saw in town, but missed a turn on the dirt road to it, when I tried to turn around, down the bike went! I had to unpack in order to stand her up again, and I was facing straight into the ditch. I had to ride into the ditch to get facing up hill. I dropped the bike a second time getting out of the ditch. My confidence shot, I repacked and rode back up the hill to othe relative safety of pavement. Google maps showed a B&B nearby, I called, and a half hour layer I was sitting in a hot tub with tea.

The usual.

Do, it's been about a week since I last posted and it's my last day on the road; I expect to be home tonight. I don't know ewhy I seem to think a blog is the way to go when I stop updating halfway through (I think I still have some unpublished posts from my last trip). Instagram is so much easier.... Anyway, I'm writing this from a cafe in Fernie. Headed home today, putting it off cause I'm guaranteed rain. But stumbled upon this:

PR

I arrived early morning in Prince Rupert, posted my last Haida Gwaii post from Cowpuccinos after waiting an hour for it to open. Then headed back down the yellowhead to check out a lake before heading to the cannery museum in Port Edward where I got a great tour from Grace!

Wandered around for a it back at the cow Bay/Prince Rupert waterfront. I took a quick nap in a bench and woke to a notification from Ashley that she was home and I could come to her place any time. Thanks Dustin for reminding me about Couchsurfing! I'd wanted to check out the brewery, but decided to drop Ky stuff off and invite Ashley. The two of us headed back down to the Wheelhouse Brewery.

It was fun hanging with Ashley, she and I got along well, and she knew half the bar! We got talking to the guys next to us (one interjected when he heard us talking about how to fix democary); turns out they're military divers and needed to talk to someone from the coast guard (aka, Ashley) about where to store their boat and dive. They also apparently need divers in Calgary and were trying to convince me to apply...

Back at Ashley's, she heated up some dinner (salmon and rice with Greek salad) and we chilled out on her deck with her new fire pit.

The next morning I woke at 0415 to catch the Northern Explorer down to Port Hardy! I was the very first vehicle/person on the boat! I got to run around alone for about 5min!

The day on the boat was chill, we had lovely weather, beautiful views but not much wildlife. I saved window seats for Leigh and Paul, a couple I'd met on Haida Gwaii, and we met 2 grads, Sam and Jenny, travelling the country from Ontario (who'd just come down from the Yukon) and a fisherman and his son.

On arrival into port hardy I booked it to my hotel, the pioneer Inn (would not recommend, but it was fine in a pinch) to crash for the night.

Leaving Haida Gwaii

I'm in Prince Rupert now, I leaved Haida Gwaii last night at 2200, arrived this morning at 0600 and killed an hour waiting for Cowpuccinos to open.

Settling in at Hadyn Turner was a good idea, I headed to to get the remaining cash to pay for my site and have some food. I ate at Blacktail in Queen Charlotte - the halibut was really good! Linds walked by in search of coffee just after I ordered so we had our last goodbye before she headed out to Gwaii Haanas.

When I returned to my campsite I met Joe sitting on a bench - he's a local musician on his bicycle, we chatted at the waterfront for a bit before going our separate ways. He was an interesting individual. Had been working on music for over 20 years, had tried other things, but that is his chosen trade. He seemed both down and optimistic about the prospect of being able to make a living making music. He played me a song before he left - it was unique a some rough transitions from one style to the next, but enjoyable. He's working on playing 2 parts at once, so I think that makes it harder.

Back at my site I met 3 people, Mark, Ward & Afra (?) travelling from the Netherlands who'd just returned from 5 days camping by kayak. Their trip sounded awesome. Bears and eagles galore minding their own business - hunting and foraging close by. They shared their beer and we chatted until well into the evening.

I woke late Thursday - about 1000, had coffee oatmeal and packed up camp. Dry for once! I headed west on a logging road in search of some trails and nearly immediately came across Kagan Beach area - there were multiple campers and trucks about. Toni approached me and invited me to dinner that evening - they had heaps of crab, octopus, oysters & other delicious seafood goodies.

I walked a ways down the beach, far enough for some privacy and changed into my bathers. I didn't really swim, but I dipped! It was a beautiful day, finally. I hurried back as the tide was coming in and I didn't want to get trapped on the beach. As it stood, I had to go inland to cross a river as it was too deep at the mouth for me to walk and I had my camera with me.

Back at the camp I watched and helped prelate the crab for dinner and shared the meal with 10 or so other travellers and one local. The local, Allie, is a nurse in town and lives in a camper on her truck - she has a small motorbike on the front but it's not Street legal and she doesn't have her license. Hopefully one day!

From there I headed to the ferry. I wanted to venture out to Yakoun Lake, but wasn't sure of the roads and didn't want to put myself in a position I couldn't get out of, especially with the ferry to catch. It was so close though! I regret not going. It's one of those things I find harder travelling alone, especially by motorbike.

They say once one visits the island, they will return....

Haida Gwaii 2

I'm a couple days behind, as usual. (more photos to come when I have WiFi and power....)

Monday, Linds Nate and his family set off on the Teylu for their trip around Gwaii Haanas with hopefully some fishing on the west coast of Haida Gwaii beforehand.

In the morning we visited the museum, before the call to the boat came (things had been a bit up in the air regarding departure timing due to tides and weather). They were due at the dock at 1400, so we quickly packed up in Skidegate and headed for Queen Charlotte. I walked/rode around town scoping out some camping locations and said my goodbyes before lunching on a burrito at a cafe.

Alone, I headed north to the Misty Meadows campground on the south tip of the Naikoon provincial park. Set up camp and headed for a 5km walk up the beach to the Pestua shipwreck on the beach. I crossed a river to get to it. I made the 5 km return trip on a different route along the river and through the forest. I started at 1720 and didn't return until 2136 - I had planned to call in to change my ferry to the sailing the following morning to give myself more time on Vancouver Island and with my dad, but alas, I had no cell service the whole time, and I returned too late to ride to find some. The decision was made for me.

Tuesday I learnt some things... The morning was lazy, coffee and oatmeal for breakfast, and I headed off on my bike. I rode up the road parallel to the river I'd been on the wrong side of the previous evening, and found a beach access. I attempted the sand on my bike. No dice. I dumped her twice before making my way safely back to the main road. I now know I can lift her on my own!

A camp service staff guy helped me fix my mirror and clutch leaver location (they'd rotated on impact), and he recommended I pressure wash off the sand at a car wash in Port Clements. I headed that way, needing cash anyway to pay for the campsite.

After hosing off my bike I headed farther north to Masset, in Old Masset I headed back to Sarah's to buy a ring I'd seen the previous day. It is a Raven with a killer whale. The Haida have 2 houses (?) Eagle and Raven with many clans in each. Back in Masset I stopped at a food truck for an early dinner - we'd chatted with the owner on Sunday when he was only serving ice cream. I had 3 tacos: tuna, prawn & smoked salmon. All delicious.

On the ride back to my campsite I stopped in Port Clements to inquire about the keys if dropped somewhere on the highway and to grab a beer to enjoy while reading back at my campsite before bed. I tried to make a fire 3 times and each time was thwarted by the rain only to have tmit stop a few minutes later. Wasn't meant to be. Still, that night was probably one of the best sleeps I've had so far on this trip.

Today I took my time packing up and trying to dry my tent. The rain mostly off that morning. And headed back up the highway towards Masset for a calm walk to Pure lake. In the rain. So much rain. I hid in the toilet before gathering my things and putting my rainsuit on under its roof. I rode back to Port clements for fuel, it wasn't raining there. Until after I visited the museum and hit the road again. I finally escaped the rain on the west side of the island near Tlell (where I'd been camping). I stopped for some cheese and bread from my pack at Crowsnest (a closed cafe but open post office! I'd been checking all of the post offices for my keys).

I rode the rest of the way to Queen Charlotte, stopping briefly to inquire about scuba, no dice, but Larry called to me from the truck window! Linds and Nate and crew were back after a day of fishing before heading south. I later caught Linds for a quick chat before I tucked into my halibut dinner at Blacktail (a local upscale restaurant in Charlotte), all after I'd set up camp at Haydn Turner. Right on the water! It's a bit of a hike, but not too bad with the gear from my bike.

Haida Gwaii

Yesterday we woke at 0400 to make the 200 km journey to Prince Rupert for 0800 to catch our 1000 ferry to Skidegate. I'm very glad we delayed the drive to that morning, we gave ourselves lots of time to get coffee before getting the the queue for the ferry, and the drive was beautiful to so in the morning light! I couldn't stop myself from making a brief investigation of the abandoned waterpark on the Kitimat highway.

There were many more stops I'd have liked to make. The clouds where low and it rained off and on the whole way, but it was beautiful along the water. Whenever the sun tried to peak through the clouds it made amazing colours.

We hit up Cowppuchinno for coffeeaand muffins before the ferry. Linds and Nate were on about an hour and a half before I was able to board. The motorcycles were last on, first off. The ride was rather uneventful save for a few brief distant marine sightings.

On arrival I met Nate's parents for the first time, and we hopped in the truck for some exploring around the nearby Jungle Beach and a hike/meander above st Mary's spring before a late dinner.we found a decomposing grey whale on the beach. We tried some seaweed lasagna noodles (surprisingly less nori like then expected - Jaime might like them! No gluten!), and I had sea asparagus for the first time! I quite liked it, but it's better with needed heaps of butter.

Today we drove to Masset in the in the North for coffee and saw a good portion of different attractions throughout the area - the blow hole, the new giant totem carved by Christian White, a brief drive in a beach, Christian White's carvery with a massive totem for the Haisla, soft serve ice cream from a food truck owner & chef from Victoria who have us a tour ielf his shut restaurant (he's had staffing issues), Rainbow warf, the spot where the Golden Spruce once stood and a midden through a machinery graveyard.

I'm debating my plans for the next few days. Originally I had most of the week with linds and Nate, but they're now slated to get on the boat tomorrow. I'm deciding if I'll stay on the island until Thursday as planned, or if I head ahouth sooner...

Kitimat?!

I woke early Friday morning, with every intention of hitting the road quickly, but after touring the camping area, taking some photos of bathing ducks, it was the usual 0930 before I was back on the highway headed west. I don't think I've ever managed to pack up a campsite and leave before 0900, didn't even have breakfast aside from a cols stroop waffle.

I stopped at an awesome cute cafe & grocery in Burns Lake, and I'm now determined to return to the area to mountain bike! There's heaps of good trails I'd have loved to check out (had it not been pouring rain, and you know I had a mountain bike - racks are available for motorbikes, but I've been told this is excessive) I passed a small airport enroute which reminded me of past ambitions to get my private pilots licence. Maybe one day.

I stopped at various rest stops to keep the sanity on my legs (and bum), my next major stop was Smithers! I was excited for this one as my parents have an investment there, so I'd heard of it, but never been. I stopped on Mainstreet and wandered around with a coffee. Also a place I'd like to return to for mountain biking/skiing or some other activity!

I made the decision here abouts to head for Kitimat that night. With the on/off rain I wasn't super keen to camp, even if it meant I'd be closer to the terminal. (not being able to leave a campsite before 9 is a problem when the ferry check in is 8...)

I got into Kitimat at 1800 to meet up with Linds and Nate. We considered driving to PR that night, but eventually decided to stay. Zzzzzzzzzz