Wednesday, July 31, 2019

Haida Gwaii 2

I'm a couple days behind, as usual. (more photos to come when I have WiFi and power....)

Monday, Linds Nate and his family set off on the Teylu for their trip around Gwaii Haanas with hopefully some fishing on the west coast of Haida Gwaii beforehand.



In the morning we visited the museum, before the call to the boat came (things had been a bit up in the air regarding departure timing due to tides and weather). They were due at the dock at 1400, so we quickly packed up in Skidegate and headed for Queen Charlotte. I walked/rode around town scoping out some camping locations and said my goodbyes before lunching on a burrito at a cafe.

Alone, I headed north to the Misty Meadows campground on the south tip of the Naikoon provincial park. Set up camp and headed for a 5km walk up the beach to the Pestua shipwreck on the beach. I crossed a river to get to it. I made the 5 km return trip on a different route along the river and through the forest. I started at 1720 and didn't return until 2136 - I had planned to call in to change my ferry to the sailing the following morning to give myself more time on Vancouver Island and with my dad, but alas, I had no cell service the whole time, and I returned too late to ride to find some. The decision was made for me.



Tuesday I learnt some things... The morning was lazy, coffee and oatmeal for breakfast, and I headed off on my bike. I rode up the road parallel to the river I'd been on the wrong side of the previous evening, and found a beach access. I attempted the sand on my bike. No dice. I dumped her twice before making my way safely back to the main road. I now know I can lift her on my own!



A camp service staff guy helped me fix my mirror and clutch leaver location (they'd rotated on impact), and he recommended I pressure wash off the sand at a car wash in Port Clements. I headed that way, needing cash anyway to pay for the campsite.



After hosing off my bike I headed farther north to Masset, in Old Masset I headed back to Sarah's to buy a ring I'd seen the previous day. It is a Raven with a killer whale. The Haida have 2 houses (?) Eagle and Raven with many clans in each. Back in Masset I stopped at a food truck for an early dinner - we'd chatted with the owner on Sunday when he was only serving ice cream. I had 3 tacos: tuna, prawn & smoked salmon. All delicious.



On the ride back to my campsite I stopped in Port Clements to inquire about the keys if dropped somewhere on the highway and to grab a beer to enjoy while reading back at my campsite before bed. I tried to make a fire 3 times and each time was thwarted by the rain only to have tmit stop a few minutes later. Wasn't meant to be. Still, that night was probably one of the best sleeps I've had so far on this trip.



Today I took my time packing up and trying to dry my tent. The rain mostly off that morning. And headed back up the highway towards Masset for a calm walk to Pure lake. In the rain. So much rain. I hid in the toilet before gathering my things and putting my rainsuit on under its roof. I rode back to Port clements for fuel, it wasn't raining there. Until after I visited the museum and hit the road again. I finally escaped the rain on the west side of the island near Tlell (where I'd been camping). I stopped for some cheese and bread from my pack at Crowsnest (a closed cafe but open post office! I'd been checking all of the post offices for my keys).



I rode the rest of the way to Queen Charlotte, stopping briefly to inquire about scuba, no dice, but Larry called to me from the truck window! Linds and Nate and crew were back after a day of fishing before heading south. I later caught Linds for a quick chat before I tucked into my halibut dinner at Blacktail (a local upscale restaurant in Charlotte), all after I'd set up camp at Haydn Turner. Right on the water! It's a bit of a hike, but not too bad with the gear from my bike.



Monday, July 29, 2019

Haida Gwaii

Yesterday we woke at 0400 to make the 200 km journey to Prince Rupert for 0800 to catch our 1000 ferry to Skidegate. I'm very glad we delayed the drive to that morning, we gave ourselves lots of time to get coffee before getting the the queue for the ferry, and the drive was beautiful to so in the morning light! I couldn't stop myself from making a brief investigation of the abandoned waterpark on the Kitimat highway.



There were many more stops I'd have liked to make. The clouds where low and it rained off and on the whole way, but it was beautiful along the water. Whenever the sun tried to peak through the clouds it made amazing colours.

We hit up Cowppuchinno for coffeeaand muffins before the ferry. Linds and Nate were on about an hour and a half before I was able to board. The motorcycles were last on, first off. The ride was rather uneventful save for a few brief distant marine sightings.





On arrival I met Nate's parents for the first time, and we hopped in the truck for some exploring around the nearby Jungle Beach and a hike/meander above st Mary's spring before a late dinner.we found a decomposing grey whale on the beach. We tried some seaweed lasagna noodles (surprisingly less nori like then expected - Jaime might like them! No gluten!), and I had sea asparagus for the first time! I quite liked it, but it's better with needed heaps of butter.





Today we drove to Masset in the in the North for coffee and saw a good portion of different attractions throughout the area - the blow hole, the new giant totem carved by Christian White, a brief drive in a beach, Christian White's carvery with a massive totem for the Haisla, soft serve ice cream from a food truck owner & chef from Victoria who have us a tour ielf his shut restaurant (he's had staffing issues), Rainbow warf, the spot where the Golden Spruce once stood and a midden through a machinery graveyard.










I'm debating my plans for the next few days. Originally I had most of the week with linds and Nate, but they're now slated to get on the boat tomorrow. I'm deciding if I'll stay on the island until Thursday as planned, or if I head ahouth sooner...

Sunday, July 28, 2019

Kitimat?!

I woke early Friday morning, with every intention of hitting the road quickly, but after touring the camping area, taking some photos of bathing ducks, it was the usual 0930 before I was back on the highway headed west. I don't think I've ever managed to pack up a campsite and leave before 0900, didn't even have breakfast aside from a cols stroop waffle.

I stopped at an awesome cute cafe & grocery in Burns Lake, and I'm now determined to return to the area to mountain bike! There's heaps of good trails I'd have loved to check out (had it not been pouring rain, and you know I had a mountain bike - racks are available for motorbikes, but I've been told this is excessive) I passed a small airport enroute which reminded me of past ambitions to get my private pilots licence. Maybe one day.

I stopped at various rest stops to keep the sanity on my legs (and bum), my next major stop was Smithers! I was excited for this one as my parents have an investment there, so I'd heard of it, but never been. I stopped on Mainstreet and wandered around with a coffee. Also a place I'd like to return to for mountain biking/skiing or some other activity!

I made the decision here abouts to head for Kitimat that night. With the on/off rain I wasn't super keen to camp, even if it meant I'd be closer to the terminal. (not being able to leave a campsite before 9 is a problem when the ferry check in is 8...)

I got into Kitimat at 1800 to meet up with Linds and Nate. We considered driving to PR that night, but eventually decided to stay. Zzzzzzzzzz

Thursday, July 25, 2019

Can't stop won't stop!

I was slow leaving Jasper this morning, just missed Maggie leaving at 0645, and yetstill didn't get out of the house until 0830. Pretty part for the course I've found. Packing a bike isn't as simple as throwing all your stuff  into a car. Thanks to this gem for seeing me off!



I got a great breakfast recommendation and a place to get stickers on my way out of town. Put my first one on my top case!

Towards Mount Robson I set off. Nearly immediately saw 2 elk and a black bear, the first of 5 I've seen today! I did a short hike around Yellowhead lake right on the BC boarder as a pit stop and then headed to the Mount Robson parking lot for gas, a snack and to fill my waterbottle. I impressed with my tank. I get over 300km where my GS would have managed 240 at best.



My next rest stop was a random stop beside the road to make some hot coffee with boiled river water. It was overcast but not much rain. I made another stop roughly 30 km outside of Prince George where I considered a hike then randomly decided to call Shane, a friend from uni, who used to live there only to find out he's visiting family! I set off to meet him.





About an hour and a half later I headed for dinner at "The Salted Cracker #3" (there's 4) where I had half a wrap and some soup. Good thing because a downpour started as I left. I rode through rain, cloud, sun, cloud, rain sun until the light faded. Made a poor decision I figured after I passed on the promise of a campsite in Fraser Lake, but managed to find myself about 50km later up a logging road at co-op lake.

Wednesday, July 24, 2019

Jasper

Made it! Perhaps a day late, but sometimes that's just meant to be. I've been incredibly fortunate today, I got to have lunch in Canmore with the lovely Aleasha who fed me and gave me tea while it rained. And helped me pick up my bike when I dropped it. Did I mention I dropped my bike? Well, got that over with! Funny how that happened the first day on my last trip too...



It's been a chilly rainy day; I'm glad for the grips that delayed my departure yesterday. The installation may have taken longer that expected, but I'm very glad for them! The winds on highway 1 in the foothills were brutal and the rain demoralizing, making my time with Aleasha that much more cherished!



I'm now in a warm bed in the town of Jasper having caught up with a friend I attendrd preschool to grade 12 with, but havent seen since graduation! Maggie graciously agreed to host me on super short notice and despite some tumultuous goings on in her own life. My heart goes out to her and her friends, and I'm greatful to get to catch up with her despite it being a difficult time. (she gives great hugs!)



A Day late and A Dollar...?

Well, I was supposed to leave yesterday. I didn't. Somehow when I went to bed Monday night I knew I wasn't leaving Tuesday - obviously hindsight is 2020*, but I feel like I knew. The heat in Calgary yesterday was brutal, and I got lots of sun installing (well trying to install) heated grips, a USB charge connection, speakers for my helmet, and throwing things in piles to go into paniers. That first one was a doozy - the 1 hour job took me nearly 8 hours - and I had to ride the bike to GW cycle to get the improperly installed throttle grip off so I could shave down more of the throttle tube to fit the grip on enough - and still had to saw a bit off the grip to get it to fit my bars. All in all it was a frustrating (very very at the time) learning experience.

Hitting the road this morning once I'm packed. This is just an intro post for anyone keen to keep tabs on my trip!


*This is gonna be a great pun all next year!