North Island

I woke up at a decent time, packed up and headed into Port Hardy for breakfast. I found a great cafe with shopping in the basement and the upstairs. I wandered with my fm offer after eating, then set out for Cape Scott! (my head says that in a Great Scott! Voice every time)

I didn't make it all the way to the Cape, it's a bout a 21 km hike one way. But I rode the 63 km dirt road to the trail head. The first 20km was the worst, the second not memorable, and the last beautiful though the trees on dirt I dint feel was trying to kill me. (naturally the trip back couldn't end soon enough. All I wanted was pavement! Sweet sweet pavement) The effort was well worth it though: San Josef Bay, about a 3 km hike from the parking lot was magnificent! The tide was on its way in, so I couldn't get to second beach (or slget trapped on second beach) but I found a nearly private Cove to swim and nap in.

Back on the main road I headed south to Port McNeil. The fog set in. Both in my mood and the sky - I traveled a ways up a dirt track to try to find a free place to camp, it was muddy and I nearly dumped the bike twice, its super hard to control through slick muddy spots, you kinda just have to keep it moving.

I got into port McNeil and tried to make it to a campsite based on some signage I saw in town, but missed a turn on the dirt road to it, when I tried to turn around, down the bike went! I had to unpack in order to stand her up again, and I was facing straight into the ditch. I had to ride into the ditch to get facing up hill. I dropped the bike a second time getting out of the ditch. My confidence shot, I repacked and rode back up the hill to othe relative safety of pavement. Google maps showed a B&B nearby, I called, and a half hour layer I was sitting in a hot tub with tea.

The usual.

Do, it's been about a week since I last posted and it's my last day on the road; I expect to be home tonight. I don't know ewhy I seem to think a blog is the way to go when I stop updating halfway through (I think I still have some unpublished posts from my last trip). Instagram is so much easier.... Anyway, I'm writing this from a cafe in Fernie. Headed home today, putting it off cause I'm guaranteed rain. But stumbled upon this:

PR

I arrived early morning in Prince Rupert, posted my last Haida Gwaii post from Cowpuccinos after waiting an hour for it to open. Then headed back down the yellowhead to check out a lake before heading to the cannery museum in Port Edward where I got a great tour from Grace!

Wandered around for a it back at the cow Bay/Prince Rupert waterfront. I took a quick nap in a bench and woke to a notification from Ashley that she was home and I could come to her place any time. Thanks Dustin for reminding me about Couchsurfing! I'd wanted to check out the brewery, but decided to drop Ky stuff off and invite Ashley. The two of us headed back down to the Wheelhouse Brewery.

It was fun hanging with Ashley, she and I got along well, and she knew half the bar! We got talking to the guys next to us (one interjected when he heard us talking about how to fix democary); turns out they're military divers and needed to talk to someone from the coast guard (aka, Ashley) about where to store their boat and dive. They also apparently need divers in Calgary and were trying to convince me to apply...

Back at Ashley's, she heated up some dinner (salmon and rice with Greek salad) and we chilled out on her deck with her new fire pit.

The next morning I woke at 0415 to catch the Northern Explorer down to Port Hardy! I was the very first vehicle/person on the boat! I got to run around alone for about 5min!

The day on the boat was chill, we had lovely weather, beautiful views but not much wildlife. I saved window seats for Leigh and Paul, a couple I'd met on Haida Gwaii, and we met 2 grads, Sam and Jenny, travelling the country from Ontario (who'd just come down from the Yukon) and a fisherman and his son.

On arrival into port hardy I booked it to my hotel, the pioneer Inn (would not recommend, but it was fine in a pinch) to crash for the night.

Leaving Haida Gwaii

I'm in Prince Rupert now, I leaved Haida Gwaii last night at 2200, arrived this morning at 0600 and killed an hour waiting for Cowpuccinos to open.

Settling in at Hadyn Turner was a good idea, I headed to to get the remaining cash to pay for my site and have some food. I ate at Blacktail in Queen Charlotte - the halibut was really good! Linds walked by in search of coffee just after I ordered so we had our last goodbye before she headed out to Gwaii Haanas.

When I returned to my campsite I met Joe sitting on a bench - he's a local musician on his bicycle, we chatted at the waterfront for a bit before going our separate ways. He was an interesting individual. Had been working on music for over 20 years, had tried other things, but that is his chosen trade. He seemed both down and optimistic about the prospect of being able to make a living making music. He played me a song before he left - it was unique a some rough transitions from one style to the next, but enjoyable. He's working on playing 2 parts at once, so I think that makes it harder.

Back at my site I met 3 people, Mark, Ward & Afra (?) travelling from the Netherlands who'd just returned from 5 days camping by kayak. Their trip sounded awesome. Bears and eagles galore minding their own business - hunting and foraging close by. They shared their beer and we chatted until well into the evening.

I woke late Thursday - about 1000, had coffee oatmeal and packed up camp. Dry for once! I headed west on a logging road in search of some trails and nearly immediately came across Kagan Beach area - there were multiple campers and trucks about. Toni approached me and invited me to dinner that evening - they had heaps of crab, octopus, oysters & other delicious seafood goodies.

I walked a ways down the beach, far enough for some privacy and changed into my bathers. I didn't really swim, but I dipped! It was a beautiful day, finally. I hurried back as the tide was coming in and I didn't want to get trapped on the beach. As it stood, I had to go inland to cross a river as it was too deep at the mouth for me to walk and I had my camera with me.

Back at the camp I watched and helped prelate the crab for dinner and shared the meal with 10 or so other travellers and one local. The local, Allie, is a nurse in town and lives in a camper on her truck - she has a small motorbike on the front but it's not Street legal and she doesn't have her license. Hopefully one day!

From there I headed to the ferry. I wanted to venture out to Yakoun Lake, but wasn't sure of the roads and didn't want to put myself in a position I couldn't get out of, especially with the ferry to catch. It was so close though! I regret not going. It's one of those things I find harder travelling alone, especially by motorbike.

They say once one visits the island, they will return....